Things to Consider When Choosing a Surfboard
Before you run out and grab Kelly Slater’s pro model, it’s worth taking a moment to think about your own surfing style and the kind of waves you’ll be riding. Trust me, the board doesn’t make the surfer—you do. Choosing the wrong board can turn an epic day in the water into a frustrating struggle, so let’s talk about a few key things you should consider before making that investment.
Wave Size & Type, you must know Your Playground
The type of waves you’re hitting on the regular plays a huge role in the kind of board that’s going to work best for you. Are you out there just cruising on some mellow, knee-high waves? Or are you chasing the thrill of overhead barrels? Your answer should guide your board choice. If you’re all about those laid-back, fun sessions, you’ll want something with more volume and stability. But if you’ve got your sights set on tackling more serious waves, you’ll need a board that’s built for speed and control.
Ability Level , finding the Right Balance don't overestimate your level
Surfboards are all about balancing different features, and there’s no one-size-fits-all. For example, a board that’s super stable might not be the easiest to maneuver when you’re trying to nail that perfect cutback. On the flip side, a board that’s too twitchy might have you spending more time in the water than on your feet. The key is to find a board that matches your current skill level. If you’re just starting out, opt for something forgiving. But if you’re more advanced and looking to push your boundaries, a more responsive board might be what you need.
Matching Your Board to Your Physique
Let’s be real—surfing is one of the most physically demanding sports out there. The board you choose can either be your best friend or your worst enemy, depending on how fit you are. If you’re built like Popeye, you might not need as much help paddling out, but if you’re more on the Olive Oyl side of things, a longer, more buoyant board could make your life a lot easier. Keep in mind, though, that bigger boards can be tougher to maneuver through the whitewater, so you’ll need to strike a balance between paddle power and agility.
Choose Wisely and Surf Happy
At the end of the day, picking the right surfboard is all about understanding your needs, your environment, and your body. Don’t get caught up in trying to surf like the pros if that’s not where you’re at—focus on finding a board that makes your time in the water as enjoyable as possible. After all, the whole point of surfing is to have fun, so choose a board that helps you do just that.
Understanding Surfboard Characteristics & Design Terms
When you're choosing a surfboard, it’s essential to understand the key characteristics and design elements that impact its performance. Let’s break down some important terms that will help you better grasp what your board can do and how it behaves in the water.
Surfboard Buoyancy
Buoyancy refers to how well your surfboard floats, and it’s generally measured in volume, expressed in liters. This term, which originated outside the US, is crucial because buoyancy provides the lift needed for your board to get up to speed, especially when catching unbroken waves. High-volume boards are more buoyant, which means they paddle faster, allowing the board to plane (rise out of the water) quickly and reduce drag. This is why longboards and mid-sized boards, which are designed for smaller, weaker waves, typically have a lot more volume—they make it easier to catch waves early, even in shallower sections.
Surfboard Thrust
Thrust is a term you might come across when reading about a surfboard’s characteristics, and it’s all about how the board propels itself as you surf down the line of an unbroken wave. This is where the fluid dynamics and physics of surfing come into play. Thrust is essentially the board's ability to redirect water from the base towards the tail, which, thanks to Newton’s 3rd law, propels the board forward. Key design features like fin configuration and base channels help to enhance this thrust, pushing the water backward and driving the board forward.
Surfboard Drive
Drive in a surfboard refers to its ability to convert the energy from the wave and the rider’s movements into forward motion. It’s a complex characteristic influenced by several factors, including the board’s flex, the grip of the fins, and how the rails engage with the water. While it’s tough to quantify drive because it’s the result of multiple design elements working together, you’ll definitely feel it when a board has it.
Surfboard Rails
The rails, or edges of the surfboard, play a significant role in how the board performs, particularly in terms of maneuverability and buoyancy. Rail profiles can vary greatly, even within a single board. Harder, sharper rails are usually found towards the tail, where they allow for quick and easy turns. Softer rails, often found near the chest and nose areas, add buoyancy and provide lift. The overall thickness of the board influences the rail profile, with softer rails contributing to a smoother, more stable ride and harder rails enhancing control and maneuverability.
SURFBOARD RAILS
Surfboard Rocker
The rocker of a surfboard refers to the curvature of the board from nose to tail, essentially how much your board resembles a banana when viewed from the side. Boards with less rocker are more efficient at planing on water, allowing them to reach paddling speed faster. These boards are excellent for flat to slightly curved waves, where speed and glide are essential. On the other hand, heavily rockered boards have more curve, which reduces the amount of board and rail in contact with the wave, making them easier to turn and maneuver. A pronounced rocker is also beneficial when dropping into steep waves, as it helps prevent the nose from diving into the water, which could lead to a wipeout.
Understanding these key surfboard characteristics will help you make informed decisions when selecting a board that best suits your style and the waves you’re riding. Each element plays a crucial role in how your board will perform, so take the time to consider what you need from your surfboard to make the most out of every session.
Surfboard different shapes
Surfboards come in a variety of shapes, each tailored to different surfing styles, wave conditions, and skill levels. Here’s a breakdown of the most common surfboard shapes and what they’re best suited for:
Longboards, The Timeless Classic
Longboards are the oldest and most traditional surfboard shape, typically ranging from 8 to 10 feet in length but in competition longboard need to be minimum 9". These boards are known for their stability, buoyancy, and ease of use, making them ideal for beginners. Longboards excel in small to medium waves and are perfect for those who enjoy a more relaxed, cruising style of surfing. They also offer the opportunity to master classic maneuvers like nose riding.
Best For: Beginners, small waves, and surfers who love a smooth, stylish ride.
Wave Conditions: Small to medium waves, up to head high.
Shortboard or high performance boards
Shortboards are designed for speed, agility, and advanced maneuvers. Typically measuring between 5 and 7 feet, these boards are the go-to choice for intermediate to advanced surfers who want to push their limits. Shortboards excel in fast, powerful waves and allow for quick turns, aerials, and other high-performance tricks.
Best For: Intermediate to advanced surfers looking for speed and maneuverability.
Wave Conditions: Medium to large waves, chest high to double overhead.
Fish it's fun
Fish boards are shorter, wider, and thicker than traditional shortboards, making them perfect for smaller, mushier waves. The design of a fish board offers more speed and stability, allowing surfers to maintain momentum even in less powerful conditions. Fish boards are great for intermediate surfers who want to maximize their wave count and enjoy a more playful surfing experience.
Best For: Intermediate surfers who want speed and fun in smaller waves.
Wave Conditions: Small to medium waves, knee high to head high.
Funboards fun and progression board
Funboards, also known as hybrids, blend the features of longboards and shortboards. Ranging from 7 to 8 feet in length, these boards are incredibly versatile, offering a balance of stability and maneuverability. Funboards are an excellent choice for surfers who want one board that can handle a variety of wave conditions, making them a great option for beginners and intermediates alike.
Best For: Beginners and intermediates looking for a versatile board.
Wave Conditions: Small to medium waves, knee high to overhead.
Guns, not to play with
Guns are specifically designed for riding big waves, often exceeding 8 feet in length. These boards are narrow and streamlined, built for speed and control in powerful, challenging surf. If you’re planning to take on massive swells at spots like Jaws, Mavericks, or Waimea Bay, a gun is the board you’ll need.
Best For: Very good surfers going for big waves, over 8 feet
Wave Conditions: Large waves, overhead to triple overhead and beyond.
Hybrid/Step-Up Boards: The Jack of All Trades
Hybrid boards, sometimes called step-ups, combine elements of various board designs to create versatile, all-around performers. These boards are slightly longer and have more volume than shortboards, making them ideal for when the waves get bigger and more powerful but you still want a board that’s responsive and fun to ride.
Best For: Intermediate to advanced surfers looking for a versatile board in varying conditions.
Wave Conditions: Medium to large waves, chest high to double overhead.
2. Surfboard Tail Shapes: How They Affect Performance
The tail of your surfboard plays a crucial role in how it handles in the water. Different tail shapes can significantly influence your board’s speed, turning ability, and overall stability. Here’s a guide to the most common surfboard tail shapes and how they impact performance:
Square Tail
Square tails provide a lot of surface area, which translates to more lift and stability, especially in small to medium waves. This shape allows for quick, sharp turns while maintaining speed down the line. Square tails are often found on high-performance shortboards and longboards, where a balance of maneuverability and speed is essential.
Best For: Quick, sharp turns and down-the-line speed.
Wave Conditions: Small to medium waves, waist high to head high.
Round Tail
Round tails offer smoother, more fluid turns, making them ideal for surfers who want a bit more control, especially in larger waves. The curved shape of the round tail reduces the amount of surface area in the water, which helps maintain speed through turns without sacrificing stability.
Best For: Smooth, controlled turns in a variety of conditions.
Wave Conditions: Medium to large waves, chest high to overhead.
Swallow Tail
Swallow tails combine the best of both worlds, offering a mix of speed and control. The unique design of the swallow tail provides a wider surface area, which enhances speed and lift, while the split in the tail gives the board a looser feel in the water. This makes it perfect for quick, snappy turns in smaller waves.
Best For: Speed and maneuverability in small to medium waves.
Wave Conditions: Small to medium waves, knee high to head high.
Pin Tail
Pin tails are designed for maximum control and hold in big, powerful waves. The narrow shape of the pin tail reduces the surface area, allowing the board to maintain a strong hold in the face of steep, fast-moving waves. This shape is ideal for big wave guns and step-up boards, where control and stability are paramount.
Best For: Maximum control in big, powerful waves.
Wave Conditions: Large waves, overhead to triple overhead.
3. Surfboard Size and Volume: Finding the Right Fit
One of the most critical aspects of choosing the right surfboard is finding the correct size and volume. Volume, measured in liters, refers to the amount of space inside the board and directly affects its buoyancy and paddling ability.
More Volume = More Buoyancy
A board with more volume will float better, making it easier to paddle and catch waves. This is particularly important for beginners, who benefit from the extra stability and ease of paddling. Boards with more volume are also great for small wave conditions where maintaining speed and momentum is key.
Best For: Beginners, small waves, and surfers who need extra paddling power.
Less Volume = More Control
As surfers progress and begin tackling more challenging waves, they often move to boards with less volume. Less volume translates to better control and maneuverability, allowing for sharper turns and more responsive handling. However, less volume also means the board will be harder to paddle, so it’s essential to strike the right balance based on your skill level and the conditions you’ll be surfing in.
Best For: Experienced surfers looking for enhanced performance in bigger waves.
To help you choose the right board, here’s a volume guide based on your weight and skill level:
Surfer Weight (kg) | Beginner (Liters) | Intermediate (Liters) | Advanced (Liters) |
40 - 50 | 31.5 | 25.2 | 21.6 |
50 - 60 | 36.0 | 29.7 | 25.2 |
60 - 70 | 40.5 | 34.2 | 28.8 |
70 - 80 | 45.0 | 37.8 | 32.4 |
80 - 90 | 49.5 | 41.4 | 36.0 |
90 - 100 | 54.0 | 45.0 | 39.6 |
100+ | 58.5 | 48.6 | 43.2 |
4. Surfboard Materials: What’s Your Board Made Of?
The material of your surfboard significantly impacts its weight, durability, and overall feel. Here’s a guide to the most common surfboard materials:
Polyurethane (PU) Foam
PU foam is the traditional material used in surfboard construction. Boards made from PU foam have a classic feel, offering good flex and performance in a wide range of conditions. However, PU boards are slightly heavier than some other options, which can make them less responsive in the water.
Best For: Surfers who prefer a classic feel and versatile performance.
EPS (Epoxy) Foam
EPS foam is lighter and more buoyant than PU foam, making epoxy boards a popular choice for beginners and anyone looking for a durable, high-performance board. Epoxy boards are also more environmentally friendly, as they use less toxic materials in the manufacturing process.
Best For: Beginners and surfers looking for a lightweight, durable board.
Wood
Wooden surfboards offer a unique and environmentally friendly alternative to foam boards. They are typically heavierand provide a different flex pattern, which many surfers find appealing for the smooth, classic ride they deliver. Wooden boards are also more durable and can be more environmentally sustainable, making them a great choice for eco-conscious surfers. However, their weight and stiffness can make them less maneuverable and more challenging for performing sharp turns.
Best For: Surfers who value sustainability, durability, and a smooth, classic ride.
5. Choosing the Right Wax: Stay Stuck to Your Board
Wax is one of the most essential accessories for your surfboard. Without it, staying on your board would be nearly impossible due to the slick surface of most boards. The type of wax you use should match the water temperature of the surf spots you frequent. Here’s a quick guide:
Cold Water Wax
Water Temperature: Below 58°F (14°C)
Characteristics: Soft and sticky, designed to maintain grip in cold water where harder waxes might become too brittle.
Cool Water Wax
Water Temperature: 58°F - 68°F (14°C - 20°C)
Characteristics: Slightly firmer than cold water wax, cool water wax is still sticky enough to provide excellent traction but more suited to cooler conditions.
Warm Water Wax
Water Temperature: 68°F - 78°F (20°C - 26°C)
Characteristics: Firmer wax that won’t melt off your board in warmer conditions, providing consistent grip even as the temperature rises.
Tropical Wax
Water Temperature: Above 78°F (26°C)
Characteristics: The hardest wax available, tropical wax is designed to withstand high temperatures and provide the necessary grip in hot climates.
6. Taking Care of Your Surfboard: Maintenance Tips
A well-maintained surfboard not only lasts longer but also performs better. Regular care and maintenance will keep your board in top shape, ensuring it’s always ready for your next session. Here are some essential tips:
Rinse Your Board After Each Surf
Saltwater is corrosive and can damage your board over time, especially if left to dry on the surface. After each session, rinse your board with fresh water to remove any salt and sand, which can also scratch the surface.
Store Your Board Properly
Avoid leaving your surfboard in direct sunlight for extended periods, as UV rays can damage the materials and cause the board to yellow or become brittle. Store your board in a cool, shaded area, and consider using a board bag for added protection.
Repair Dings Quickly
Small dings or cracks can let water into the foam core, which can lead to delamination and other serious damage. For minor dings, you can use a surfboard repair kit to seal the crack. If the damage is more extensive, it’s best to take your board to a professional repair shop.
Check Your Fins Regularly
Fins can take a beating, especially if you’re surfing over reefs or rocky areas. Regularly check your fins for any cracks or loosening, and replace them if necessary. Also, ensure that removable fins are securely attached before heading out.
7. Recommended Surfboard Brands and Models
With so many brands and models on the market, choosing the right one can be overwhelming. Here are some top surfboard brands and models tailored to different skill levels:
For Beginners:
Catch Surf - Odysea Log: A great choice for beginners due to its stability, buoyancy, and forgiving nature.
Foamy - Retro Fish Soft Top: Combines the ease of a soft top with the fun, speedy feel of a fish board.
Softech - Roller Longboard: Perfect for those just starting, offering stability and easy wave-catching.
For Intermediate Surfers:
Firewire - Dominator 2.0: A versatile board that handles a variety of conditions, great for progressing surfers.
Lost Surfboards - Puddle Jumper: Ideal for intermediate surfers looking to have fun in smaller waves.
Haydenshapes - Hypto Krypto: A popular hybrid board that excels in various conditions, perfect for intermediate to advanced surfers.
For Advanced Surfers:
Channel Islands - Al Merrick Happy: A high-performance shortboard designed for advanced surfers who want speed and maneuverability.
Pyzel - Ghost: Known for its exceptional performance in powerful waves, this board is a favorite among big-wave surfers.
DHD - 3DV: Offers precision and control, ideal for advanced surfers looking to push their limits.
Choosing the right surfboard is a highly personal process. It’s about finding the perfect balance between your skill level, the waves you’ll be riding, and the type of surfing you enjoy. Remember, there’s no one-size-fits-all when it comes to surfboards, so don’t be afraid to experiment with different shapes, sizes, and materials until you find the board that feels just right under your feet.
Whether you’re a beginner looking for your first board or an experienced surfer seeking to add a new shape to your quiver, the right board is out there waiting for you. So, take the time to explore your options, get out on the water, and most importantly, enjoy the ride!
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